This list contains plants that have been reported as having systemic effects on horses and/or intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract.
Please note that the information contained in our plant lists is not meant to be all-inclusive, but rather a compilation of the most frequently encountered plants. For more information, contact us at napcc@aspca.org. Information provided by ASPCA July 2007
Top 10 Nutritional Tips for Horses Remember that old nursery rhyme that begins, “Hay is for horses…”? As it turns out, that’s sound advice for feeding companion equines—as are the following tips from our experts at the ASPCA Pet Nutrition and Science Advisory Service.
1. Base Your Horse’s Diet on Grass and Hay
A horse’s digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should consist of grass and good-quality hay that’s free of dust and mold. As a general rule, companion horses should be able to graze or eat hay whenever they want to.
2. Feed Several Small Meals a Day
Because horses’ stomachs were developed for grazing, horses function better with a feeding plan based on “little and often.” ASPCA experts recommend that horses should eat several small meals—at least two, preferably three or more—in the course of a day. When feeding hay, give half the hay allowance at night, when horses have more time to eat and digest.
3. No Grain, No Gain
Most horses, even fairly active ones, don’t need the extra calories found in grains. Excess grains can lead to muscle, bone and joint problems in young and adult horses. Unless directed otherwise by your veterinarian or other equine professional, it’s best to feed low-energy diets high in grass and hay.
4. Be Aware of Individual Needs
Feed according to the individuality of the horse, including condition and activity level. Some horses have difficulty keeping on weight, and need more feed per unit of body weight. However, most horses should eat between 2 percent to 4 percent of their body weight daily in pounds of hay or other feeds. Your veterinarian can help you decide how and what to feed your horse.
5. Water Works
Plenty of fresh, clean, unfrozen water should be available most times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice a day. Contrary to instinct, horses who are hot from strenuous exercise should not have free access to water. Rather, they should be allowed only a few sips every three to five minutes until they have adequately cooled down.
6. Provide a Supplementary Salt Block
Because most diets do not contain mineral levels high enough for optimal health and performance, horses should have free access to a trace mineral and salt block. This will provide your horse with adequate levels of salt to stabilize pH and electrolyte levels, as well as adequate levels of trace minerals. As long as plenty of fresh water is available, you needn’t be concerned about overconsumption of salt.
7. Take it Slow
Any changes in the diet should be made gradually to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) and laminitis (painful inflammation in the hoof associated with separation of the hoof bone from the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. Horses are physically unable to vomit or belch. Overfeeding and rapid rates of intake are potential problems. Consequently, a horse or pony who breaks into the grain bin, or is allowed to gorge on green pasture for the first time since autumn, can be headed for a health disaster.
8. Dental Care & Your Horse’s Diet: Chew On This…
Horses need their teeth to grind grass and hay, so it is important to keep teeth in good condition. At the age of five years, horses should begin annual dental checkups by a veterinarian to see if their teeth need floating (filing). Tooth quality has to be considered when deciding whether or not to feed processed grains (grains that are no longer whole, such as cracked corn and rolled oats). Horses with poor dental soundness—a particular problem in older horses—tend to benefit more from processed feed than do younger horses, who have sounder mouths and teeth.
9. Exercise Caution
Stabled horses need exercise. Horses will eat better, digest food better and be less likely to colic if they get proper exercise. Horses should finish eating at least an hour before hard work. Do not feed grain to tired or hot horses until they are cooled and rested, preferably one or two hours after activity. You can feed them hay instead. To prevent hot horses from cooling down too quickly, keep them out of drafts or warm in blankets.
10. Don’t Leave Home Without It
Because abrupt dietary change can have devastating results on a horse’s sensitive system, you should always bring your horse’s food with you when you travel. Additionally, some horses will refuse to drink unfamiliar water, so you may also want to bring along a supply of the water your horse regularly drinks.
Information provided by ASPCA July 2007
IT"S NOT ALL ABOUT DOGS AND CATS - LET'S TALK HORSES
Equine Remains Decisions & Disposal
Montana
State Veterinary Association Web Site:
http://www.avma.org/statevma/mtvma/default.htm
Rendering Facilities:
N/A
Deceased Animal Disposal Laws:
Mont. Admin. R. 32.3.125 DISPOSAL OF CARCASSES
(1) Carcasses of animals that have died from other causes than anthrax must be disposed of in a satisfactory manner so as not to become a public nuisance or a menace to livestock or poultry. Carcasses of dead animals may not be disposed of along public highways, streams, lakes, or rivers, or allowed to remain on the ground surface so as to become a public nuisance or a menace to livestock or poultry.
Auctions & Slaughter Many chronically lame, poorly trained, unsuccessful or simply unwanted horses, among them ex-racehorses, adopted wild horses, and horses from riding schools, camps, dude ranches and backyards, do not live out their final days in peace and comfort. When they become a financial burden or an inconvenience, they are sold at auction or directly to a “killer buyer” and end up at the slaughterhouse, destined for foreign meat markets.
Some buyers for the slaughter market do not tell the owner where the horse is actually going, and some horses are stolen and sold to slaughter. After horse slaughter was outlawed in the state of California, a significant decrease in horse theft was reported.
Unfortunately, some equine industries and sports have come to depend on the economic crutch of always having a “buyer of last resort,” and feel threatened by national legislation to outlaw horse slaughter. When one can get a few hundred dollars for an unwanted horse, rather than pay for euthanasia and disposal of the remains, there is little incentive to curb irresponsible overbreeding or consider what will happen to the horses in their “retirement.”
There are alternatives to livestock auctions and slaughter for a horse you are unable to care for. A lot depends on the age, condition, training, and temperament of the horse.
- Look for a home locally through friends and other contacts. Tell your veterinarian and farrier that you need to find your horse a new home.
- Check the phone directory or search the internet for local SPCA’s, humane societies, animal control agencies, horse clubs, councils or rescues which may be able to provide advice or contacts.
- Be very careful about who takes your horse and why. Some good advice and ideas can be found at:
- There are some retirement farms for horses. Payment is usually required and there may be a long waiting list. Search the internet for the terms "horse" and “retirement.” Ryerss Farm for Aged Equines (http://www.ryerss.com/) in Pennsylvania is the oldest and most established.
- Do not “donate” your horse to a horse rescue unless that is truly your only option. They are there for the neediest horses. Keeping an accurate list is hard because many equine rescues do not last long. Lists of rescue groups by state can be found at
- http://www.equinerescue.com/staterescues.html
- http://horsewelfare.8k.com/rescues.html
- http://www.ahdf.org/rescues.html.
- Contact local colleges with riding programs to ask about donating your horse. IHSA directory of programs: http://www.ihsa.com/IMS/IMS_HallofTeams.asp
- Some therapeutic riding centers may be willing to take a sound horse with the appropriate temperament. A directory of programs can be found at: http://www.narha.org/Centers/FindCenter.asp
- Some mounted police units accept donated horses. A list of programs is here: http://www.mountedpolice.com/donation.html
- Some breeds have their own rescues and placement networks. Check the internet, breed publications, and local sources.
- The National Thoroughbred Racing Association has a Racehorse Adoption Referral Program. For information, call 877-576-6872. The Thoroughbred Retirement Foundation and ReRun have farms in several states.
